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<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nIt is quite possible that you have done some papercraft work during \n your childhood, although it is also quite possible that it is the first\n time you see this word. Do you remember the scrapbooks <\/strong>with\n which you could build castles, monuments and other architectural \nparaphernalia armed only with scissors and a glue pot? Well, everything \n evolves and thanks to the Internet this hobby has grown<\/strong> and evolved in a wonderful way. If finally we are going to make of this hobby something habitual also it is very convenient to throw of compatible cartridges <\/strong> so that each model does not become a bleeding of money in ink.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For papercraft to have a minimum structural integrity we must use paper with a higher grammage<\/strong><\/a> than\n usual in the folios. Using paper with a thickness like cardboard will \nsuffice. A paper of 180 gr \/ cc will be ideal for most of the cases, but\n it is not necessary to be so specific: look to see what types of paper \nof higher weight have in your usual photocopying and do tests until you \nfind the one that best suits you .<\/p>\n\n\n\n papercraft blade and crafts<\/p>\n\n\n\n Although you can use a cutter<\/em> of the traditional (and to \nstart may be better idea) at the end it is convenient to use a blade \n\u201cscalpel\u201d straight tip to make cuts to the paper with total \nprecision. In North America they are called X-acto Knives but here you \ncan find them in any craft store<\/a> or even in Lidl-style supermarkets they usually take offers of this type of tools from time to time. The scissors are completely forbidden<\/strong> :\n they go very well to cut large external lines, but as soon as you get \ninto detail they are useless. Also, as soon as you get used to using the\n blade you will go much faster than with any scissors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n To make the folds we will mark the paper before so that it is folded \nexactly where we want it to be. We will help with a tool that \u201cwear\u201d the\n paper without breaking it: a blade of the previous ones that is already\n quite worn, a blunt punch or even a worn pen can be excellent tools. Of\n course, if you are going to use the pen, make sure before it is \ncompletely worn out!<\/p>\n\n\n\n With the typical white tail of crafts<\/strong><\/a> we\n will be perfect. Try not to buy \u201cChinese\u201d glues, stick glues or \n\u201cImedium style\u201d. Loctite and the like are completely prohibited!<\/p>\n\n\n\n There are many tools and techniques that will make life easier when \nmaking advanced papercrafts, but this article being a mere approach to \nthis hobby we assure you that with what we have offered you have more \nthan enough to do many projects.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Although advanced techniques are very necessary in case you want to \nmake a papercraft complex or very bulky, for most models will be enough \nto print, mark, cut, fold and paste. <\/strong> If possible in this order if we do not want to end up with a paper ball in the trash \u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n Print has no greater mystery: we will simply download the model that \n has interested us from any of the previously mentioned websites (either\n in pdf, in jpg or in pepakura) and we will remove it by the \nprinter. In this aspect the inkjet offers a much higher quality for \nwhat we want, since the ink penetrates the sheet of paper (heavier, \nremember) and when cutting this ink does not \u201ccrack\u201d as it happens with\n the of lasers. This does not mean that we can not use laser printings,\n simply the impressions with traditional ink will be better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Next we will mark the paper for the areas that will later have to be \nfolded. These are marked by a series of dotted lines, which can come in two flavors<\/em> :<\/p>\n\n\n\n In mountain (- \u2013 \u2013 \u2013 -). They are the most common<\/strong> , \nshould be marked with the help of a ruler and the punch or tool that we \nhave chosen directly above the drawing, for (once cut this) bend making a\n \u201cmountain\u201d, that is, the two parts of the drawing left on each side \nmake \u201chillsides.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n In valley (- \u2022 \u2013 \u2022 -). Many of the models do not have this type of \nmarks, but for those who have them they simply have to fold them \u201cupside\n down\u201d, in such a way that instead of a mountain the \u201cslopes\u201d of the \ndrawing make a valley downwards. Being purists, you should mark the \ndrawing on the unprinted part (behind the page) so that it looks good, \nbut unless you are a papercraft professional (do they exist?) Simply \nmark them as the mountain ones and then turn towards the other side.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Later we will cut each piece of the model by straight lines, taking \ncare not to cut by mistake the white \u201ctabs\u201d that we will use to stick \nthe pieces together. As we have said it is convenient to use a blade or cutter<\/em> instead of scissors. Next we will fold each piece by the previously made marks and we will be ready to paste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When sticking the pieces you just have to look at how they are \nattached to each other and stick them with the white \u201ceyelashes\u201d. Most \nmodels that offer a minimum of complexity come with detailed \ninstructions on how to glue the pieces together. At the time of applying\n the glue, use as little as possible<\/strong> of this: it will \nstick much earlier and there will be no need to clean \u201cremains\u201d. To do \nthis, it is usually very good to use a toothpick to apply the glue, \ninstead of directly from the bottle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n And that\u2019s it! If we have applied correctly each dose of glue should \ndry in a few seconds and just go joining the pieces one by one until we \nhave our model. As we have said previously there are techniques to make \nthe papercraft look better (like painting the edges beforehand so you do\n not notice the white of the paper) but as a beginning this is enough \nand it is enough. There are very simple models that can be done in a \nshort time and large and complex models that will take months to finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We could not leave this article on papercraft without mentioning that it is without a doubt the best program to create and print<\/strong> papercraft models: the Pepakura. This program (in its paid version Designer<\/em> ) allows you to make models based on 3D images, although most of the people will suffice with their free version Viewer<\/em> to be able to print and look at the models.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The advantage that Pepakura has (besides that some models are in this\n format and you will need it if you want to open them) is that each \nmodel can be rotated in 3 dimensions to see exactly how each piece is \njoined. It also has different options to be able to see edges, print the\n model with or without dubbing lines (more complicated but the model is\n much cleaner), see the model with or without textures \u2026 Without doubt a\n very useful program, especially for what it costs: zero. It also comes\n with some models preloaded and ready to print.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This\n is all! If in the end you end up interested in this magnificent (and \nterribly cheap) form of leisure do not forget to send us your work so we\n can admire them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Did you like the previous papercraft<\/em> article ? If so, you are in luck<\/strong> , because here you have your second part, with more tips and tricks so that your papercraft<\/em> are\n the envy of friends, neighbors, architects and several sculptors. Of \ncourse, we warn that it is practically essential to have read the \nprevious papercraft<\/em> article so that you can approach the task\n with guarantees: we are going to assume that you already know all the \nbasic techniques and materials and that you are prepared to face the \nmost advanced techniques.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As there is nothing better to know well the techniques than to practice them we will see how to make a \u201csimple\u201d papercraft<\/em> step by step. We emphasize the word \u201csimple\u201d since, although it does not require any special ability to do so, the final finish will be very noticeable depending on the technique<\/strong> since the papercraft<\/em> in\n question contains several rather small pieces. We have chosen a bust of\n Batman because it is impressive in any environment \u201cgeek\u201d, because it \ntakes just a couple of weeks at a quiet pace to perform and because \nbeing mostly black-black is easier to disguise the joints between pieces\n pulling marker pen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Seeing the model in question begin with the eyes, since they are the \nareas with the largest number of tiny pieces. It will require large \ndoses of patience and skill, but it is better to start here for two \nreasons: first it will be easier to join later larger pieces and, \nsecond, we can decide to make another model more affordable if we \ndespair too much with this without having lost too much time. We will \nmark and cut separately the pieces of each eye, we will revise the edges\n with black marker so that the white of the leaf is not seen and we will\n be joining with the minimum amount of glue the pieces. We can help \nwith hair removal tweezers<\/strong> to hold the pieces if we consider it necessary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Una vez hechos los ojos el resto vendr\u00e1 rodado. Iremos construyendo \nla cara alrededor de los mismos, recordando siempre pintar de manera \nprevia las piezas. Las piezas m\u00e1s grandes se pueden montar aparte y unir posteriormente<\/strong> al\n conjunto, asegur\u00e1ndonos siempre antes que nos van a caber los dedos a \nla hora de hacer presi\u00f3n entre las piezas. Ante la duda siempre ser\u00e1 \nmejor ir pegando las piezas una a una al conjunto inicial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When we begin the flesh-colored part of the face or the gray of the \nchest, we will stop using the black marker and begin to paint the \nedges with wood paints<\/strong> . Using markers with any color \nother than black will make the final model more noticeable the unions \nthan if we had left blank. Batman finished! It has not been so \ncomplicated, right?<\/p>\n\n\n\n You know Howl\u2019s traveling castle, we put the trailer to give you an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat we are talking about.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n Where before we could only make buildings and little else, now the \nInternet provides us with infinity \u2013 and we say well, there are tens of \n thousands \u2013 of papercraft models of all shapes and origins to be able \n to create what you want in 3 dimensions. Do you want the characters in\n your favorite video game? It is more than likely that you can find \nthem to perform using papercraft. Any character from cartoon series or\n manga? There are kicked. Vehicles, animals, food, everyday \nobjects? Everything has its model in papercraft, including of course our\n long-awaited monuments (believe us, when you see everything you can \ndo through papercraft you will forget the monuments very soon). The \nbest of all? It\u2019s a hobby that provides dozens of hours of entertainment at a ridiculous price<\/strong>:\n you only need ink to print the models downloaded for free from the \nInternet, a series of very basic tools to cut and paste and a lot of \npatience. We will leave patience aside for now and focus on all that is \n needed to start creating models.
Tools needed
Internet and printer
\n The models are available for free on the Internet and soon after \nsearching papercraft on Google, dozens of web pages with \nready-to-download models will appear. However, so that you can go to \nshot done we show you here a few perfect pages to find your first models<\/strong> :
Ca non papercraft<\/strong> :<\/a> Great page to start, with a multitude of papercrafts of little complexity.
Papercraft Museum:<\/a><\/strong> Hundreds of models of all kinds.
Papercraft Square<\/a> :<\/strong> Another great page with thousands of models available.<\/p>\n\n\n\nCardstock<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Craft blade<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nTool to mark<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Glue<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Other<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
How to make a papercraft<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nPepakura<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\nAdvanced papercraft<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nExample: a simple papercraft<\/em> step by step<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nExample: an advanced papercraft<\/em> step by step<\/h3>\n\n\n\n